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Slider Hitch vs. Manual: Pros and Cons

If there isn’t a user’s manual for “Towing 101,” there should be. If all we did was pull our rigs in a straight line, this slider vs. manual hitch debate wouldn’t be necessary.

However, when towing a 5^th wheel in and out of tight spaces, the right tow hitch can make all the difference. Here’s a breakdown to help you decide which is right for you.

Many experienced RV’ers will tell you that a standard manual hitch is good enough and that a slider isn’t necessary. However, even the most seasoned drivers will admit that even though they hardly use the slider hitch, it’s ended up saving their hides on more than one occasion. One thing is for sure: maneuvering your towed unit out of a tight space puts you at risk for jack knifing your 5er and causing significant damage to your tow vehicle. (Ouch!) This is where the flexibility of a slider hitch gives you a definite advantage. Also, if your pin box comes straight down, the slider really is necessary. Many drivers choose a manual hitch because it costs less, but let’s think about that for a minute. Compare the price difference between a slider and a manual, and consider how much it will cost you to repair a caved in bed and broken rear window. Seems to me if you only used the slider once it would pay for itself. 

Manual hitches perform well in certain circumstances and as mentioned before, they cost less. For example, if your 5th wheel has a V nose and an extended pin box and your hitch placement is correct, a manual hitch turns with just as much precision as a slider. 

Towing, backing and turning around in a 5^th wheel isn’t for the faint of heart – the more experienced the driver, the better. But if you haven’t done much towing or your unit doesn’t meet the above criteria, a slider hitch is one of those “Better safe than sorry” investments to consider.

Happy Trails!

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How to Winterize Your RV

Some people travel year-round in their RV’s, but if you store your RV during the cold winter months, here are some things you need to know about winterizing your unit. Winterizing is a very important part of maintaining your RV so that when spring rolls around again, your water lines will be intact and road ready. An alternative to winterizing of course is to drive it to Florida during the winter, but that’s another article.

Winterizing

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV antifreeze (The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do).
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A wand to clean out holding tanks.
• A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your particular RV make and model:

• If you have any inline water filters, remove and bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. If the RV doesn’t have a built in tank flushing system, clean the black tank out with a wand, or use a product like Flush King that allows you to clean both the black and gray tanks. Lubricate the termination valves with WD 40.
• Drain the water heater. Remove the drain plug and open the pressure relief valve. CAUTION (never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure)
• Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
• Locate and open the low point drain lines. There will be one for the hot and cold water lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
• Recap all drains and close all faucets.

At this point you’ll need to bypass the water heater. If you do not have a bypass kit installed, the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze. Here’s how:

• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank). Connect a piece of clear tubing to the inlet side of the pump and put the other end into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
• Repeat this process on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower, if equipped.
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element make sure it is turned off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
• Make sure all the faucets are closed.
• Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines.

Now that your unit is winterized, you can rest easy and feel confident that it is protected against harsh winter weather conditions and temperature changes while it is being stored. 

Safe Travels!

Connie's Campers

BudgetRVsofTexas 

Towing Capacity: What You Should Know

Understanding towing capacity is critical because a mismatched tow vehicle and trailer can put you and your loved ones’ safety in jeopardy. It can also result in expensive repair bills for damage and premature wear to major components on your tow vehicle. It is the least understood issue because most buyers are not aware of weight concerns until it is too late. I’m hoping this article helps explain the terminology and technical details of safe towing in an easy to understand guide.

Let's start with the tow vehicle. The vehicle manufacturer determines tow vehicle ratings. Extensive testing is done and many factors are considered such as; engine size, transmission, axle ratio, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires, cooling system, and tow packages. Any time a vehicle or trailer is given a rating it is based on the weakest link in the chain. For example, the axle on a trailer may be capable of supporting 5,000 pounds, but if the tires on the axle can only support 3,000 pounds the axle is rated for 3,000 pounds. This is why it is crucial that you never exceed a manufacturers rating. 

You can take five ½ ton trucks with the same engine, and tow ratings for each different vehicle can vary by 4,000 pounds. One of the major factors affecting tow ratings is the rear axle ratio. Very basically, the axle ratio is a comparison of how many times the drive shaft rotates versus the wheels. If you have a 3.73:1 axle ratio it means the drive shaft rotates 3.73 times for each rotation of the wheels. The higher the numeric value of the rear axle the better it tows, but you compromise gas mileage. The key to selecting the tow vehicle is to figure out what your requirements are and to know exactly how it is equipped so you can determine the correct tow rating. Tow ratings are extremely important, but there are other weight issues concerning the tow vehicle that are often overlooked.

There's a very simple formula we can use to determine how much we can safely tow, but first there are a couple of weight ratings you need to understand:

Armed with this information, let's look at a typical buying scenario. We know for a fact that our tow vehicle is rated to tow 8,800 pounds and it has a GCWR of 15,000 pounds. When I account for the cargo in the truck, three additional passengers, and aftermarket accessories my actual tow rating is 8,040 pounds. Keep in mind that any weight you load in or on the truck reduces the tow rating by that amount. For example:

Now let's look at our towing formula: Tow Vehicle GCWR - Tow Vehicle GVW = the Maximum GVWR for a trailer we can purchase.

 

The GCWR for my truck is 15,000 pounds. Now I subtract the GVW of my truck when it's fully loaded for travel and this equals the maximum GVWR of a trailer I can consider purchasing. The only way to determine the actual GVW of the tow vehicle is to take the fully loaded vehicle to a set of scales and have it weighed. The GVWR can be found on the Safety Compliance Certification label, located on the exterior left front of the trailer.

So let's say we found a trailer with a floor plan we like that has a GVWR of 8,000 lbs. The UVW or Dry Weight of the trailer is 6,350 pounds. Keep in mind we have to add:

·       Any dealer installed options

·       Cargo loaded in the trailer

·       Any water we add to the fresh water holding tank, and

·       LP gas

This gives us a gross trailer weight of 7,075 pounds. Ask the RV dealer to show you the weight label that is inside the trailer for accurate trailer weights. Unloaded Vehicle Weights found in a manufacturer's brochure are normally for the base model of the trailer and do not include options the dealer may have ordered on the unit. In the majority of cases there is a significant difference between the GVWR and the UVW of the trailer.

Let's see if this will work: Remember our GCWR is 15,000 pounds. When we subtract the weight of our fully loaded tow vehicle and our fully loaded trailer we still have 1,093 pounds to spare before we exceed our GCWR.

 

This method will almost always works, unless you have the tow vehicle and the trailer loaded to their maximum GVWR, which when added together can exceed the GCWR. This is more likely to happen when the tow vehicle is a light duty vehicle like a minivan, small SUV or light duty truck. In this situation you simply add the GVWR of the tow vehicle to the GVWR of the trailer then select a tow vehicle that is rated for the combined weight.

If your original calculations are based on estimates you need to verify all weights by going to a set of scales and properly weighing the vehicle and trailer. Keep in mind this article only covered towing basics! My advice is to also check additional weight factors and considerations such as Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR), tires, tire inflation, proper hitch work, and trailer brakes. I hope this helped to clear up some of the issues concerning matching your tow vehicle and trailer to ensure a safe towing system.

If you’d like to calculate your towing vehicle’s dealer-listed towing capacity, go to: http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-tt.shtml
 

Happy and Safe Travels!

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